Tools to get you going: 1/2 breaker bar with 1/2 socket, 8mm
socket, 8mm open/box wrench, Ratchet, 19mm or 3/4" socket, 5mm hex wrench,
Strap wrench, Steering wheel (or similar) puller, Helpful extras: Air impact
wrench, longer bolts for the puller (may be required)
1: Remove four bolts to the starter idler cover. Remove the small idler gear and
set aside with the cover.
2: Remove the left case cover. Loosen the nine bolts in a criss-cross pattern so
as to avoid warping the cover. Once all are loose, remove them. The bolt
farthest to the left is securing the Raptor's ground wire, so disconnecting the
battery is also recommended. You may have to rock the cover back and forth to
get it loose. Try not to pry as this can easily damage the mating surfaces.
Carefully move the bottom oil line out of the way. This is a solid line so
bending it to far or with to much force will damage it.
3: Remove all the dowels and set aside. Remove the flywheel. While holding with
a strap wrench, loosen the nut 1 in. This is where an impact wrench comes in
handy! Otherwise, a breaker bar will suffice. You may have to have a helper
standing on the rear brake and also have the bike in gear….This nut is TIGHT!
Once loose, remove the washer and loosely replace the nut (recommended) so when
you pop the flywheel off, the nut will stop it from flying forward.
4: Pull the Flywheel. Now its time to set your puller up. You may have to get
some longer bolts for the puller so they will reach (depends on the one you
use). Line everything up and make sure you are straight, it helps. Now apply
some torque on the center bolt and tap on the end of the puller with a hammer
until the flywheel "pops". It may take a while but it will eventually
break free…Don't give up!
5: Remove the woodruff (flywheel) key and set it with the other parts. Pull the
52 tooth (large gear behind the flywheel) idler gear off the shaft. If you have
a 2001, remove the needle bearing and set aside. You will not reuse this
bearing if you purchased a kit. The gear we sent to you is ready to go with a
pressed in brass bushing. Check the bearing surface for wear and pitting and
replace if worn.
6: Remove the one-way from the flywheel. Hold the flywheel on a stable surface
with a shop towel or something similar. Loosen the bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to avoid warping the flywheel. After all the bolts are out, the one-way
will be a little tight, so you may need to press it off from the inside of the
7: Clean out the flywheel. Use rubbing alcohol and clean all the grease and
debris from the inside and outside of the flywheel.
8: Install the one way. Line up the bolt holes. Prepare the bolts by putting
some red locktite on each and snugging the new bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts
in a criss-cross fashion to 11 ft/lbs or 16 N/m. This is critical, you must
torque these bolts correctly and evenly!
9: Clean the old gasket material from the case and the cover. Cover the hole
(case side) that is open to the transmission to stop debris from entering.
Clean both surface carefully and wipe clean with rubbing alcohol. Also clean
the shaft surface and make sure all debris is removed. If you removed the
wiring harness gasket, put sealant on one side and replace.
10: Put engine oil/lube on the shaft. Install the idler gear onto the shaft. Now
place the woodruff key in the slot. Now slide the one-way/flywheel assembly
over the shaft. Turn it to make sure the woodruff key is where it should be and
that it rotates smoothly.
11: Install the gear on the one-way/flywheel assembly. While this is not
required with a stock unit, the L&A needs to be installed slightly
different. Turn the gear clockwise while inserting the hub of the gear into the
one-way opening. Now try and turn the gear counter-clockwise, it should engage
(not turn). If this is the case, you have succeeded!
12: When you are satisfied the assembly is correct, place the washer and
flywheel nut on the shaft. Grab your strap wrench and place it on the flywheel
and tighten the nut to 110 ft/lbs or 150 N/m. Once again, you may need a helper
to hold the rear brake and the bike may need to be in gear. Make sure
everything is well lubricated. Place the dowels in the case.
13: Remove the shop towel you were using to stop debris, place your case gasket
over the dowels. You may use some gasket spray (slightly adhesive) to hold the
gasket if you like. I usually don't need to as the dowels hold it in place
fairly well. Place the case cover onto the dowels and tap lightly; possibly
rocking it slightly to position it. If it become very hard or is not aligning
properly, remove and try again. Replace the idler gear near the starter,
replace the gasket (small size) and the cover. Put your ground wire in
position, replace all the bolts and tighten to 7.2 ft/lbs or 10 N/m. Use a
criss-cross pattern for tightening a before. Move your oil line into place and
As a recommendation, replace your drain plug with a magnetic one. Fill the bike
up with oil and ride it for 15 minutes or so. Drain your oil (clean your
magnetic plug off) and replace the filter. Fill it up with oil and you are
ready to go!